Malden, London 3 December 1997
Having survived and greatly enjoyed -- as well as over-feasted --
a great family Thanksgiving celebrated this year with my brother Dave
-- over from Lexington, Virginia together with his wife Joan, and
our nieces and nephew Emma, Claire and Miles -- as well as my Dad
from Rochester, December has started brightly.
I traveled up to London by train yesterday to meet Derek Cooper, the
presenter of BBC 4's Food Programme, whom I have long admired, and
to take part in a broadcast on Korean food for the show. We met at
Jie's Café (74 Burlington Road) in New Malden, which has become
the centre of the Korean community in London. There are not only Korean
restaurants here, but also Korean groceries as well as a number of
other businesses serving the Korean community, which numbers an estimated
50,000 or so. Jie's is an informal, family place that should be visited,
wholly authentic, mainly patronised by Koreans, and serving superb
foods. We enjoyed before recording a splendid feast consisting of
pajon (spring onion pancake), two types of kimchi, a variety of fresh,
crunchy namuls or salads dressed in soy and sesame, sizzling pork
in chilli-tinted kochujang, mandu dumplings, fish and tofu hotpot,
and much else.
Also taking part in the proceedings were So-Hee Lee, a publisher of
a Korean language newspaper, and Ron Grierson, who is endeavouring
to import and sell Korean foods in England, not an easy task I fear.
Derek is as charming and personable in person as he is on the radio
and a true professional who made the interview seem but an enjoyable
and informal chat. It was his first taste of Korean food, and I'm
sure he greatly enjoyed it.
most enjoyable day out provides me with the opportunity to share a
recipe for one of my all-time favourite foods, bulgogi, also
known as Korean barbequed beef as authentically it is cooked over
hot coals at the table. If you are interested in learning more about
Korean foods, please check out our Flavours
of Korea based on our book of the same name.
is probably the best-known and most popular of all Korean foods. In
restaurants, it is often prepared theatrically at the table on a brass
or iron shield. However, cooked over a hibachi barbecue, grilled,
or fried in a very hot frying frying pan, it is always delicious.
cloves, peeled, crushed, and finely chopped
piece fresh ginger, peeled, crushed, and finely chopped
ground black pepper
toasted sesame seeds
to taste (optional -- kochujang is a Korean fermented bean and chilli
paste that is a characteristic and delicious flavouring)
necessary score the meat and pound lightly with a meat hammer to tenderize.
Slice the meat into thin strips across the grain on the diagonal bias.
Combine the marinade ingredients and add to the meat. Mix well with
the hands, then set aside for at least 1 hour.
a charcoal fire if using. Remove the meat from the marinade and grill
over the hot coals for 5-7 minutes, turning with tongs frequently.
If you have a domed shield, place this over the fire, allow to heat
up, then place the meat strips on the hot metal, turning as required.
The meat may also be cooked under a hot grill, or fried in a very
hot frying pan.
with steamed white rice together with a pile of cleaned lettuce leaves
and the kochujang if desired. Either eat as is, or else take a lettuce
leaf, add a bit of rice, some strips of meat and a little dab of kochujang.
Roll up to make packets to eat with fingers.
Suggestion: Though boricha barley tea is the traditional
accompaniment to Korean meals, we always enjoy this tasty barbequed
meat with a forceful red, such as a St-Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage
from the middle reaches of the Rhône.
Copyright © Marc Millon
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