dish reminds me of our time in Alicudi a few years ago, balmy evenings
enjoying simple foods from Elda's terrace, overlooking the church
below and across the sea to the pale outlines of the neighbouring
islands of Filicudi, Salina, and sometimes even Stromboli. The lemons
we'd use would be picked fresh from local trees. Here in Topsham,
we may not have that luxury -- seek instead to find organic unwaxed
lemons that have, well, quite simply a more lemony intensity -- but
the view across the wide stretches of the Exe estuary and Exminster
marshes to the Haldon Hills is no less stunning.
extra virgin olive oil
garlic, peeled but left whole
bottle dry white Italian wine (preferably Sicilian)
lemons, juice and zest
of freshly and finely chopped flat leaf parsley
and freshly ground black pepper
a large pot of salted water to the boil.
in a wok, heat the olive oil over a moderate flame. Add the whole
garlic clove and the whole peperoncino, and sauté briefly for
five minutes of so, until the garlic just begins to take on colour
and the chili to release its oils. Remove and discard. Add the white
wine to the flavoured olive oil, and reduce by half over a brisk flame.
Reduce the heat, add the lemon juice and about half the lemon zest.
Keep the sauce at a bare simmer.
the spaghetti until al dente. Drain and toss in the wok, together
with the remaining lemon zest and finely chopped parsley; season with
salt and plenty of coarsely ground black pepper. Serve at once.
suggestion: A fresh, zesty white from Sicily, such as Rapitalà,
Settesoli or Corvo Bianco goes well with this dish. Alternatively,
serve with Frascati or Verdicchio, but always ensure that you choose
an example from the most recent vintage.