Terra Madre 2008 welcomes the world
report
by Marc Millon
photographs by Freddie Dudbridge
The
sounds of Terra Madre
Turin,
Italy 27 September
2008 Terra
Madre, the world gathering of food communities, opened on October 23rd
in Turin’s Winter Olympic ice hockey arena to great fanfare.
There were ‘contadini musicisti’ playing the sounds
of Terra Madre (a new feature), and a procession with flag carrying representatives
from some 153 countries. More than 6000 delegates were gathered – farmers,
producers, fishermen, market organizers, chefs, teachers, writers,
academics and youth delegates – creating a truly global network
of individuals involved in the production, the cooking, the selling,
the writing and thinking about real traditional foods. We were linked,
as much as anything with such a vast and diverse gathering, by a
system of beliefs and values about the worth of rural activities and
local food production, protection of the earth, and the value of real
food, traditional food, simply to make our lives – as well as our
livelihoods - better. “Siamo tutti contadini,” declared
Paolo Di Croce, the Secretary General of Terra Madre in his opening remarks.
The ‘rete
di Terra Madre’ – this extraordinary
network of world food communities – has grown ever stronger since
Terra Madre was first launched in 2004. It has evolved from inspiration
into action and has demonstrated to the world the power of a true grassroots
movement that can bring positive change. We were reminded that Terra
Madre is about solidarity too – in recent times of natural disasters,
its communities have reached out to give real aid and assistance, notably
with the Katrina Relief Fund as well as at other natural disasters around
the world.
Taking
part in a Terra Madre Earth workshop
As delegates
of Terra Madre, we
were welcomed
with stirring words. Alice Waters, the iconic American
chef and restaurateur, now Vice President of Slow Food, spoke of the
challenges we face: the industrialization of food production, the introduction
of GM foods, climate change, and the homogenization of our diets.
HRH Prince
Charles, who was not able to be at this year’s Terra
Madre, spoke to the gathering via a video, and lent his wholehearted
support to the movement, to organic farming and to environmental conservation.
Ban Ki
Moo, the Secretary General of the United Nations, also sent a message
of support: “I
welcome initiatives such as yours which contribute to building new
partnerships and focus public opinion on small-scale farming. The global
food crisis requires a comprehensive and coordinated global response.
I thank Terra Madre for joining our partnership. In that spirit, I
wish you a most constructive and successful gathering.”
Dr. Vandana
Shiva, Slow Food Vice President and founder and President of
the Navdanya Association, received a standing ovation when she spoke
movingly and angrily of a world that can bail out corrupt bankers yet
balks at the greater challenges of eradicating hunger, poverty and
giving rights to those who produce the foods we eat. The Navdanya Association
was born from the search for nonviolent farming approaches that protect
biodiversity, the earth and small farmers. Her poignant remarks about
the hundreds of farmers in India who have committed suicide because they
could not afford GM seeds were particularly moving.
Social
injustice was a recurring theme. A speaker from Brazil stated that ‘we
cannot accept that the destiny of humanity is the continuation of poverty:
we want something else for future generations’. Others
issues introduced by the speakers resonate in the wider world beyond
the halls of Terra Madre: challenges such as the management and conservation
of natural resources and water; dealing with climate change; finding
ways to make sustainable, non-intensive agriculture work; the ever greater
importance of rural and local economies, especially in times of recession
and with the oil crisis making costs ever higher and higher.
Young Sam
Levin, a high school student from Massachusetts, introduced us to “Project
Sprout”. Sam and his fellow students
worked hard to create a market garden in a disused soccer field on their
school grounds. The produce is now being used in the school cafeteria
and surplus vegetables are donated to the homeless. “We have
proved to ourselves that youth can make a difference,” he
affirmed, to thunderous applause. It
is a movement and a feeling that is spreading around the world: this
year Terra Madre welcomed some 3000 youth delegates.
Carlo Petrini
emphasized the importance of youth. “They
are our future and give us hope.” He too placed Terra Madre’s
concerns within the immediate context of today’s events. “Who
would have thought, just four years ago when we launched the first Terra
Madre, that the world would face such crisis? Everyday life as we know
it is at risk. Yet there is also a sense of freedom, that the era of
shameful wealth without limits is now over. I am strongly convinced that
the world economic crisis will lead to more respect for the rural economy,
agriculture and farming – the real, grounded economy – and
that the values of Terra Madre will be recognized,” stated the
founder of the Slow Food movement. “The local economy and an appreciation
of the values of traditional skills and knowledge is the future. And
the future is here amongst you all.”
Petrini is nothing if not inspiring. He is one of those rare human beings
who can translate big ideas into concrete happenings.
Carlo
Petrini
Over the
days that followed, workshops, talks and discussions took place in
the vast hall of the Oval, just behind Lingotto, where the Salone del
Gusto was taking place simultaneously No one would claim that answers
were found for all the larger global issues and challenges that the
world now faces. But real progress was made on a variety of fronts
through connecting with the very people whose lives and livelihoods
depend on such progress, at whatever level. For example, practical
Earth Workshops were held on such diverse topics as “The potato
and other tubers”; “The
network of quality coffee”; “Healthy canteens”; “Sustainability
in the restaurant, the sustainability of restaurants”; “Indications
of origin”, “Fish: transform and preserve” and many
other topics of direct relevance to those involved in such activities,
whether producers, fishermen, chefs, market organizers, or academics.
Slow Food UK launched its campaign for “Slow Bread” made
by artisan bakeries and discussions took place around this topic. Of
particular concern to us were discussions about how artisan foods can
be made accessible not just to a wealthy elite but to all.
Such gatherings
are the
strength of Terra Madre: to talk, to meet, to share, so that
the smallest and most needy food communities from around the world
are able to share platforms with equal vigour, energy and solidarity
with those who may be bigger, stronger, or more developed. In this
way, the food communities of the world feed off each other, nourishing,
learning, supporting.
Terra Madre
closed on Monday, but the results of this world gathering will, I believe,
resonate around the world. It was an inspiring reaffirmation that all
our efforts and activities – wherever we are in the world,
and in whatever way we connect with food and food communities – have
real worth and value. Those who attended, I'm certain, leave charged
with a collective determination, in the months and years ahead, to seek
to find practical ways and solutions, ways to make our values and beliefs
translate into positive actions that will benefit Terra Madre – Mother
Earth – and,
in whatever small way, make the world a better place, for all of us as
well as for future generations.
Slow
Food Devon Topsham Market at Terra
Madre 2008
Links:
Terra
Madre
Slow
Food
Report
from 1st Terra Madre and Salone del Gusto 2004
Report
about the Slow Food Award for Biodiversity 2000